Southwest
Fred Fleming’s Champions BBQ
Critic’s Rating: 4 stars out of 5
4400 Fourth St. N, St. Petersburg, 727-525-1227, championsbbq.com
Friends visiting from England were “gobsmacked” by the stunning KC style beans with their heady mix of cumin, golden raisin, and apple elevating them to the greatness that comes with surprise. The shredded brisket and pork glisten with juiciness — but just in case, Champions offers five delicious sauces to convert any palate.
And did I mention the ribs? They are magnificent! The late Fred Fleming deserved to claim the Champions title for his BBQ; his family is carrying on the tradition.
Southeast
Al’s Finger Licking Good Bar-B-Que
Critic’s Rating: 4 stars out of 5
1609 18th St. N, Tampa, 813-956-0675
Al’s bright yellow Ybor bungalow is full of charm, including a sign that the men’s restroom is “outside to the right.” Check out “fall-off-the-bone turkey leg Thursday.” The service is quick and friendly, with amazingly juicy turkey breast, and smoky shredded brisket and pork. The famous mac & cheese is indeed comfort food, if too soft for my taste. They only offer a single sauce, but the meat is so moist and flavorful, it doesn’t matter.
And the ribs are so good you may have to atone!
So, it is ordained that in all four of these Bay area BBQ cathedrals, St. Louis-style ribs are the one true meat. I was always a pulled pork acolyte; but now the ribs practically have me speaking in tongues. After a lifetime of unwavering faith, I have to confess to being an angel of BBQ ecumenism (with or without sauce).