The following is Weekly Planet's reliable guide to restaurants throughout the Bay area. We hope this bite-size reference will serve as a quality source to aid in your dining pleasure. Because of the extensiveness of the listings, we run alternate lists each week. Our critic dines anonymously and all meals are paid for by Weekly Planet. The dollar sign rating in The Dining Guide is arrived at by calculating the average cost of one appetizer, one entr?e, one dessert and one drink for one person, not including tax or tip: $ = $15 and under; $$ = $16 to $25; $$$ = $26 to $49; $$$$ = $50 and over.

HILLSBOROUGH

BrandonBec's 147 E. Bloomingdale Ave. (813-662-3000). Grab-n-go morning drivers will love the palmlettes, calzone-like breakfast sandwiches stuffed with delicious combos of eggs, meat, cheeses and veggies. For brunch, try baked egg souffl?s with a variety of meats, cheeses and veggies. Lox and bagel lovers will appreciate the generous Nova platter. For lunch, try dough-zers, big, overstuffed pockets with tasty, creative fillings. $

Joto Japanese Restaurant, 905 Lithia-Pinecrest Road (813-684-0221). Belly up to the sushi bar or grab a seat on the floor while a kimono-clad waitress serves traditional Japanese dishes. Try the special sushi and sashimi platters. $

La Septima Caf?, 140 N. Parsons Ave. (813-684-1948). You'll find a taste of the original Latin flavors of old Ybor in this quaint little Brandon caf?. Look for large portions and excellent Cuban sandwiches, succulent roast pork and chicken served with saffron rice. $

Tampa

Carrollwood/Northwest Tampa

3 Palms Grille & Gallery, 8203 N. Armenia Ave. (813-933-2401). A neighborhood favorite featuring an unusually creative mix of ethnic and culinary styles, from crab cakes with banana chutney all the way to mushroom-smothered steak and Southern-style meatloaf. The chef's specialty, different varieties of creamy cheesecake, is the best dessert. $$$.

Bombay Masala, 4023 W. Waters Ave., North West Plaza (813-880-7511). This casual Indian Cafe offers good, healthy food cooked with plenty of herbs and spices. Try delicious breads, especially naan stuffed with nuts and raisins; shrimp madras with fresh coconut, roasted spices and curry; or fill up at the Tuesday night all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet. $$

Jazzy's B-B-Q, 5703 W. Waters Ave. (813-243-8872). Just a single tidy dining room with bare tables, overlooking the big wood-fired grill, but the place produces top-notch fare. Order the slab of pork ribs, add sides of baked beans, creamy potato salad and even a crispy, varied coleslaw, and you have a winner. Save room for the best pecan pie in Tampa, however. $

Kaisen Sushi, 12785 N. Dale Mabry, in Mission Bell Square (813-969-3848). This friendly, casual and tiny cafe offers exceptionally fresh, artfully prepared, delicious and value priced sushi. What more can you ask for? A must-try is the calamari, thick slices of succulent fried squid served in a dark, smoky sauce. Sweet grilled eel and seared tuna are excellent, and ask if they have toro, the choice, and fatty tuna. Bargain no-sushi dinners offer enormous portions of tempura and teriyaki. $$

Jasmine Thai Restaurant, 13248 N. Dale Mabry (813-968-1501). No doubt this is one of Tampa's best Thai eateries. The dominant Thai influence, Indian-Chinese, with an added emphasis on fresh herbs and spices such as cilantro, garlic, lemongrass, mint and chilies, make this a cuisine to savor; almost like no other. $$

Tampa — Davis Islands

Estela's Mexican Restaurant, 209 E. Davis Blvd. (813-251-0558). Enjoy traditional Mexican specialties while dining al fresco or inside this charming cantina. Excellent fresh salsa, smoky enchiladas and tasty margaritas are menu highlights. No less than 25 dinner combinations, and open late. $

Pink Flamingo Cafe, 210 E. Davis Blvd. (813-251-2928). The Islanders know this is the place to go for breakfast or lunch. Wake up to a Healthy Start, a big bowl of fresh, seasonal fruit tossed with low-fat strawberry and banana yogurt, topped with granola, and your choice of a jumbo muffin or bagel for one low price. Your mouth will water for hot-off-the-grill sandwiches, like the Island Club, packed with turkey, ham and bacon, sliced avocado, tomatoes and melted Swiss cheese on pumpernickel bread with a light, creamy mustard sauce. $

Pipo's Latin Cafe, 238 E. Davis Blvd. (813-258-8100). Pipo's traditional Cuban boasts large servings, modest prices and the best mojo roast pork in the Bay area, made with a family recipe. Or, try favorites like black bean soup or Cuban sandwiches. Finish with creamy flan. The restaurant also features dancing in its outdoor plaza on weekends. $

Tate Brothers Pizza, 233 Davis Blvd., Suite A (813-251-2767). This casual eat-in/takeout pizza place is family-owned and operated. No Ragu and frozen bread dough here. Sauces, meatballs and crusts are homemade. Toppings are fresh and good quality, like first-rate cheeses, pepperoni and, God bless them, fresh garlic on the pizza! Yummy breadsticks, soft and dripping with butter. Calzones as big as the plate are a meal in themselves. $

Downtown Tampa

Il Terrazzo, Tampa Waterside Marriott Hotel (813-221-4900). Elegant gold and ivory dining room is home to Italian specialties such as veal scalloppine, various pastas and a terrific version of homemade cheesecake. Overlooking the water, its pretty French doors connect to a gracious patio beyond. $$$-$$$$

Mise En Place Restaurant, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Suite 110 (813-254-5373). Owners Marty and Maryann Blitz create a culinary happening in this smart brasserie-style eatery. Billed as a Neo-American Bistro, its most popular dish is rack of lamb, crusted with grainy mustard and pecans. Best dessert is the fabulous chocolate pecan toffee tart. $$-$$$

Shalimar, 204 Morgan St. (813-222-3400). Tampa is lucky to have a traditional Indian restaurant right downtown, serving hearty ethnic dishes like lamb curry, the spicy favorite called chicken vindaloo. Do try the $6.95 lunch buffet, a terrific way to sample a couple of dozen offerings, a tasty selection of chutneys, veggie dishes and simple salads. For dessert, try rice pudding, washed down with cardamom tea. $$-$$$

East Tampa

Big John's Alabama BBQ, 5707 N. 40th St. (813-626-9800). The tender chopped pork sandwich will spoil you forever, but if you must, order the slab of pork ribs as well, accompanied with cinnamon-flavored baked beans and coleslaw or potato salad. It's just a hole-in-the-wall but a friendly one, so eat in or takeout. You'll not find any better barbecue anywhere in the Bay area. $

Florence La Mexicana Restaurant, 902 S. 22nd St., 813-248-8566. This modest Mexican cafe, located in a gritty, industrial sector of Tampa, is a good bet for low-cost meals and snacks. Order pork cooked with red chilis and Mexican beer. $

V.P.'s Country Barbecue and Catering, 7117 U.S. 301 N. and Sligh Ave. (813-626-1996). Vasko and Emilia Popov bring a bit of Bulgarian spice to old-fashioned American barbecue. Lamb, pork, beef and ribs are slow roasted, smoked and spiced with the chef's secret sauce. Picnic under palm-thatched shelters beneath the spreading oak trees, or go inside and see the spotless barbecue kitchen. Whole, spit-roasted lambs are a catering specialty. $-$$

Tampa — Hyde Park

Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant, 2109 Bayshore Blvd., (813-250-0203). A hip spot for family, lovers and late-nighters, this place is regularly open until the wee hours with a delightful menu of Spanish snacks, or tapas. Best dish: Berenhena parilla, grilled eggplant baked with portobello mushrooms, tomato, olive oil and Manchego cheese; or try a selection of cold snacks. Save room for dessert — the dense flan is a treat. $$

Chandler's, 717 S. Howard Ave. (813-250-1661, fax, 813-250-1650). Dwight and Lauren Otis operate this fine restaurant with verve. Fresh ingredients, creative presentation and unusual dishes like venison or eggplant ravioli make it a great place for a special night out. Lots of the menu items are also quite reasonable, so you can dine without breaking the bank. Order mangrove snapper followed by Lauren's gooey chocolate truffle dessert, but almost anything is a winner. $$-$$$

Ciccio & Tony's, 1015 S. Howard Ave. (813-251-8406). Expect a casual, crowded atmosphere and fresh flavors at this Italian-New American eatery that's been a mainstay of the SoHo neighborhood. The menu is Italian-based, but can range from pasta platters to Pacific Rim-flavored tuna and imaginative wraps. $$

Evos, 609 S. Howard Ave. (813-258-EVOS). Who says fast food has to be bad for you? This is the scene for some of our favorite fast food, like crispy air fries, all-fruit smoothies and great tasting, healthy burgers and chili, so flavorful, you'll never believe they're low in fat and cholesterol. $

Gourmet Pizza Company, 610 S. Armenia Ave. (813-258-1999). The word gourmet gets tossed around far too casually. We think it should be reserved for places like The Gourmet Pizza Co. where quality, creativity and flavor really shine. The classic pie is terrific; but give your taste buds a thrill with specialty pies like Thai chicken, with crisp veggies and spicy peanut sauce, or steak gorgonzola, with sliced rib eye, caramelized red onions and fresh mushrooms sprinkled with bleu cheese. $

Hugo's Spanish Restaurant, 931 S. Howard Ave. (813-251-2842). A friendly Spanish/Cuban eatery on bustling Howard Avenue. It's not gourmet city and it's not fancy, but it's darned good. Black beans and yellow rice are among the best in town; a whopping plateful easily feeds at least two hungry caballeros. $

Le Bordeaux Country French Restaurant, 1502 S. Howard Ave. (813-254-4387). French cuisine in a comfortable setting. The menu changes daily to accommodate the freshest meat and produce. Start with baked escargot, order as an entr?e, for instance, lamb served with a sauce featuring fresh cherries, or one of the tangy stews so famous in France. For dessert, try profiteroles, miniature cream puffs with a delicate filling, lathered in chocolate sauce. $$-$$$

Royal Palace Thai Restaurant, 811 S. Howard Ave. (813-258-5893). You'll eat like royalty at this Thai restaurant, where they show off one of the best curry sauces for seafood we've ever tasted. Any dish that promises crispy is a delight, from the delicate, crispy duck breast to the flash-fried red snapper. More traditional dishes show that Thai flavors can be subtle as well as spicy. Expect delicious food, a lovely interior and polite, if unpolished, service. $$

Tampa — Seminole Heights

Ansley's Natural Marketplace, 402 Sligh Ave. E. (813-239-2700), and 3936 Kennedy Blvd. (813-879-6625). Large, natural food stores with exceptional produce, and a selection of good whole-grain breads, carrot loafs and such. Good takeout prepared foods with plenty of flavor and variety. $

Rigo's Eatery, 6607 N. Florida Ave. (813-236-7446; www.rigoseatery.com). This arty little eatery offers a big garden patio out back. Inside, you can order scrumptious breakfast and brunch foods like made-to-order French toast and waffles, eggs Benedict, breakfast sandwiches and more. Lunch and dinner offer big, tasty sandwiches, several meals-in-a-minute for the on-the-go diner, and for dessert, try the tiramisu. Not too hungry? The easygoing atmosphere makes it a swell place to stop for a cafe con leche and a fresh pastry while you read the Weekly Planet. $

Viva La Frida Cafe y Galeria, 5901 N. Florida Ave. (813-231-9199). Art in food and decor, La Frida specializes in fresh, flavorful Mexican fare at reasonable prices. Its interior is graced with colorful reproductions of artworks of the late Frida Kahlo and originals produced by local artists as well. Order the bleu cheese salad, chicken enchiladas, and for dessert, the delightful mini chocolate almond chimichangas. $-$$

South Tampa/Palma Ceia/Interbay

Cafe B.T., 3324 W. Gandy Blvd. (813-831-9254). B.T. Nguyen will graciously welcome you to her casual, yet sophisticated cafe and introduce you to the fresh fusion flavors of French and Vietnamese cuisine. At lunch, try light fare like salads packed with a profusion of fragrant herbs and fresh dressings. At dinner, focus on some of the most creative daily specials around. Our favorites include duck breast with a buttery mango sauce and baby grilled lobster tails spiked with Dubonnet. A wine list is available. $$

Caff? Italia, 3114 Bay to Bay Blvd. (813-831-0600). Leave it to savvy chef/owner Andre to create some of the most awesome cuisine Italiano in town. For starters try the melanzane, thinly sliced eggplant in extra virgin olive oil. Continue with the radicchio and endive salad. Follow with at least one pasta selection, like Andre's cappellacci di zucca, homemade spinach pasta with squash in a light tomato cream sauce. $$$

Chubby's Super Subs & Pizza, 5023 Bayshore Blvd. (813-831-5557). Offering good cheesesteaks without the grunge, Chubby's sports nice selections of the Philadelphia favorite, along with respectable lasagna, ziti and manicotti, and even wine by the glass. $

Dong Phuong, 3636 Henderson Blvd. (813-874-2919). Closed Sunday and Monday. This dinky cafe, which shares space with an Asian grocery, serves the basic refreshing Vietnamese noodle dishes and pho, the meal-in-a-bowl. A good spring roll, grilled shrimp and pork over noodles and Vietnamese filtered iced coffee costs under $8. The market offers bargains on fresh herbs and Asian produce. $

Fuji Sushi Bar and Japanese Restaurant, 1155 S. Dale Mabry (813-282-9098). Look for traditional Japanese dinners like katsu, fried beef, chicken or pork cutlets, along with shrimp and vegetable teriyaki on the menu, with a sushi bar offering daily lunch and dinner specials. Bento boxes are the best buy. Isobeage, seasoned, grilled salmon rolled with seaweed paper, is a treat. $$

Il Gabbiano, 3671 West Shore Blvd. S. (813-831-0694). Inside Il Gabbiano you'll find an intimate dining room, fine food and attentive service, but don't let the Italian name fool you. Moroccan owners Ali Seghrouchni and Chef Younes Bennani sneak a bit of the Casbah into their Mediterranean menu. Enjoy fine pastas with fresh-made sauces, as well as splendid lamb shanks kissed with wine and cinnamon, delightful couscous, or tender veal in green peppercorn cream sauce. $$

Jimmy Mac's, at the Imperial Marina, 5000 W. Gandy Blvd. (813-839-3449). Known to most as a burger empire, Jimmy Mac's dips into the sea to come up with some unique fish dishes. There are langostino in Chardonnay sauce, seafood in the coop, large Dungeness, blue and golden crab. If you like their famous burgers, order the Bigger Mac; it contains one full pound of beef. Grouper, swordfish, tuna and salmon can be ordered blackened, broiled or grilled. $$

Thailand Restaurant, 5252 S. Dale Mabry (813-837-1793). Some of the best spicy Thai cuisine in Tampa. Start with the hot and sour soup or the shrimp lemongrass, and then graze on a few appetizers like the satay with a slightly hot peanut sauce and cucumber salad dip, fried shrimp with sweet and sour sauce or the all-encompassing combo appetizer platter. $$

Tampa Int'l Airport/Courtney Campbell Causeway

Armani's, Hyatt Regency Westshore, 6200 Courtney Campbell Causeway (813-281-9165). A romantic Italian enclave of fine dining. You must not leave without trying the awesome antipasto bar, the homemade pastas and their decidedly decadent desserts. The cuisine is prepared by a master chef, trained in Italy, who keeps getting better and better. Pasta dishes are excellent, as is the fresh seafood. Have an after-dinner drink on the cozy outdoor patio. Good wine list. $$$

Roy's, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd. (813-873-7697). This chain restaurant bases its menu on the cuisine of famed Hawaiian chef Roy Yamaguchi, who describes his style as Hawaiian fusion. So, look for plenty of Pacific fish, such as butterfish, which is on the menu daily. For dessert, choose melting hot chocolate souffl? or fruit strudel. A large, well-executed wine list complements the menu. $$$.

North Tampa

Taj, 2734-B Fowler Ave. (813-971-8483). Regulars will tell you it's the best Indian food in town. There are a number of good curries, from sweet kormas to spinach, prepared with vegetables, lamb, beef or seafood. Have plenty of naan, their addictive bread, and some luscious ice cream. $$

Tokyo Sushi Bar, 5711 E. Fowler Ave. 813-983-1822 This humble, little sushi bar does a bustling business with office workers and college students who appreciate fresh sushi and sashimi at affordable prices. Sure, there's the standards, like California rolls if you want 'em, but try some of the chef's own creations, like the Temple Terrace roll, a blend of mahi mahi, salmon and avocado with tempura sauce. Best buys are the combination sushi/sashimi boats. $$

Trang Viet Cuisine, 1524 E. Fowler Ave. (813-979-1464). Lunch and dinner daily. Tasty, healthy Vietnamese cooking with a French flair, featuring fresh, home-grown herbs and daily market specials. Weekday lunch specials are a bargain. Lively dinner menu, like cook your own seafood fondue, or chicken in a clay pot. Homemade desserts are special. Try banana cake (banana and coconut cake topped with peanuts). Beer & wine. $

Vallarta Mexican Restaurant 9255 N. 56th. St. (813-987-2720). The Jimenez family puts plenty of tasty dishes on the table, all served with zesty homemade salsa and guacamole. Large portions of well-known favorites like chimichangas, quesadillas, burritos and taco salads make up most of the long menu, all made with better ingredients and fresher flavors than you'll find if you run for the border. $

Tampa — Ybor City

Bernini, 1702 E. Seventh Ave. (813-248-0099). Chef Mark Regulski presents innovative Italian cuisine in a classy, sophisticated setting. The menu changes daily, so expect surprises, but favorite standards include gourmet wood-fired pizzas, especially the one with marinated chicken, smoked mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and oregano and a spicy three-chili oil. $$$

Cafe Creole, 1330 Ninth Ave. E. (813-247-6283). If you're into Cajun or Creole cuisine, this is perhaps the very best Tampa has to offer. Whether it's Andouille sausage or one of the best etouffees and gumbos in town, you can find it at this popular spot in Ybor. Great bar and lots of fun to boot. Louisiana oysters and crawfish are among the very best. $$

Ovo Cafe, 1901 E. Seventh Ave. (813-248-6979). Ovo was one of the first to bring true cool to Ybor, and still lords it over many lesser newcomers with elegant, man-size martinis and an eclectic menu given to grazing. At lunch, try the customer fave, a finely chopped salad with fresh lemon vinaigrette. For dinner or drinks, pick from an assortment of appetizers and noshes, like personal wood-fired pizzas, pierogies in a variety of sauces or ice cream and liquor-topped waffles. $

Samurai Blue Sushi and Sake Bar, 1600 E. Eighth Ave., inside Centro Ybor, just in front of Muvico (813-242-6688). Samurai Blue brings a kewl breeze to Ybor Centro's family-friendly style, with an urbane atmosphere that still knows how to have fun. The food offers a fresh take on traditional Japanese, with traditional sushi (recommended: the soft-shell crab roll). Non-sushi eaters will love the sweet, creamy taste of the Hawaiian roll, with coconut, cream cheese, asparagus and cucumber and rice rolled in thin slices of avocado and mango. An ample sake bar rounds out the menu, making this a perfect spot to drink or dine. $$-$$$

Tampa Bay Brewing Co., 1812 N. 15th St. (813-247-1422). One of the best microbreweries in the Tampa Bay area is also one of the best restaurants. Choose from good-quality pub grub like huge sandwiches or crusty pizzas (there's ale in the dough). For dinner entrees, choose from regular menu offerings like savory roasted prime rib, shrimp pasta with Creole seasonings and bronzed salmon flavored with ale or explore the daily specials for beer-infused New American cuisine like duck breast risotto with a sauce of cask stout-balsamic reduction. Open seven days a week. $$

PINELLAS

Clearwater

North Clearwater/Countryside

New York Bagel Boys, 2566 McMullen-Booth Road (727-797-9891). Recommended for breakfast/brunch, N.Y. Bagel Boys prove man cannot live by bread alone. Wonderful bagels (big, dense, crispy and flavorful) are made on site, slathered with flavored cream cheeses or topped with eggs, omelets, ham, Kosher salami, pastrami, lox. They serve lunch too, with traditional N.Y. deli fixings. $

Pulcinella Ristorante, 2475-E McMullen-Booth Road (in the Oakbrook Plaza) (727-669-9512). If you've ever visited Italy, you'll feel right at home with Chef Carmine's exquisite, authentic Italian menu prepared with the finest imported ingredients. You must try fresh arugula with olive oil and, an incredibly delicate, slightly nutty beef, cured carpaccio-style. Then sample pastas that will make you swoon, like rigatoni with fresh, imported porcini and very expensive white truffle oil, or the rigatoni al Amatriciana, pasta in fresh tomato sauce flavored with basil, onion and bacon. $$

Sukhothai, 2569 Countryside Blvd. #3 (727-724-2995). Thai dishes and an elegant Eastern ambiance combine to create a romantic adventure. A class operation. $$

Downtown Clearwater

Battlefield Earth Cafe, 402 Fort Harrison Ave. (727-444-9900). Inspired by the L. Ron Hubbard book that inspired a major motion picture, this Scientology-theme cafe is an all-star treat. It features Scientology-theme decor — servers in mock Navy uniforms, alien pods and a hot-fudge-spewing volcano — and Hollywood memorabilia from famous Scientologists, such as Tom Cruise's racecar in Days of Thunder and a framed copy of Priscilla Presley's Dear John letter to Michael Jackson. John Travolta has been known to make an appearance from time to time. Fancy spotting this megastar in Tampa Bay! Recommended: the Beck I'm a Loser Lobster Linguine ($275), but that's for clear patrons only. You must visit several times and pass a psychological audit before being privy to the menu with the truly delicious items. $$-$$$$

Harrison's Grill & Bar, 401 S. Fort Harrison Ave. (727-449-2942). Harrison's has become a favorite after-work spot for American favorites, like nachos and wings, hamburgers, grouper sandwiches, steaks and pastas, but don't mistake this for a franchise fern bar. Almost everything here is made fresh in the kitchen. Try the hot bacon dressing on a house salad along with homemade soup, or fill up a heartier appetite with juicy, slow-roasted prime rib. $

O'Keefe's, 1219 S. Fort Harrison Ave. (727-442-9034). This restaurant draws a bigger crowd on St. Pat's Day than the Boston parade. As you might guess, corned beef and cabbage is big on the menu, and it's fork tender, but throughout the year the average diner is more apt to be munching on one of their justly famous burgers (or trying their sandwiches, hot dogs, steaks or seafood).$$

Tri-City/St. Pete-Clearwater Airport/Feather Sound Carmelita's Mexican Restaurant, 5042 East Bay Drive (727-524-8226). Fresh, homemade Mexican flavors at bargain prices. The best appetizer is the crunchy, tasty taquito. Combo platters are heaped. Sopa de tortillas, chicken-rice-corn soup, makes a meal in itself. Be sure and try sangria soda, a great alcohol-free choice for lunch or the designated driver. $$

Philly's Famous Cheesesteak Co., 4375 East Bay Drive (727-539-1733). Junky, trashy, dirty, perfect spot to score an authentic cheesesteak sandwich for a cheap, terrific meal. Or try the restaurant's pizza, handmade crust, spicy sauce and lots of cheese. $

Thai Basil, 4445 East Bay Drive (727-532-6108). This unassuming cafe offers a heaping helping of tasty Thai food with a young attitude. Try their fresh, zingy cheese rolls, a tasty combination of cream cheese, shrimp, carrots and green onions wrapped in a spring roll and fried golden, dipped in sweet raspberry sauce, or toasted tortillas stuffed with a spicy filling, fried and dipped in sweet chili sauce. Best menu bets are grilled lamb chops with basil sauce, anything with chili jam, vegetarian fried rice with tofu, as well as traditional Thai dishes like pad Thai and curries. $

Dunedin

Bayou Bistro and Mudbug Lounge, 456 Causeway Blvd. (727-736-6467). Chef/owner Karen Thomas serves up some fine Cajun food in this funky restaurant and bar. Everything is fresh and made from scratch, right down to the blackening spices on the thin-sliced, gator tail filet. Don't pass on dessert, a huge slice of bread pudding with spiced rum sauce, or is that yum sauce? $

Casa Tina, 369 Main St. (727-734-9226). Got some extra hot sauce on hand? Bring a bottle to this cozy gourmet Mexican and vegetarian restaurant and they'll buy you a drink. (Forget about Tabasco, though; that doesn't count.) The menu has heart-healthy items, including a good ceviche (fresh marinated seafood). Also featured are heavenly wild mushroom quesadillas, fresh roasted poblanos stuffed with cheese, a dish of mole verde and mole poblano and corn tamales juicier than ever before. $$

Kelly's For Just About … Anything, 319 Main St. (727-736-5284). Whether it's for breakfast, lunch or dinner, this casual, ambient, award-winning eatery is the shining star on the Dunedin culinary scene. It's funky, fun and you can dine under the stars. Breakfasts are unique; lunch and dinner specials, seafood, beef and poultry, are always consistently good. Better than that, they're done with a flair. $$

Gulf Beaches/North

Heilman's Beachcomber, 447 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater (727-442-4144). People don't come here for trendy food but for old-fashioned favorites like charcoal-grilled steaks, delicately flavored seafood dishes and the house specialty, a complete dinner of traditional pan-fried chicken, mashed potatoes, gravy and creamy coleslaw. It's worth a visit just to taste this perfect rendition of the South's most famous dish. Most entrees range $14-20 with soup or salads, bread and sides. $$

Guppy's, 1701 Gulf Blvd. (727-593-2032). Guppy's is across from the public access on the gulf, so you can go in beachwear casual, but expect the fish to be all dressed up. The emphasis is on fresh fish, prepared in innovative ways with the best ingredients. Don't miss the shrimp in olive oil and roasted pepper appetizer or the creative daily specials. The bar features a respectable wine list and German and English beers. Prices range from $6.95 to $15.95. $$

Nadia's Restaurant & Bar, 2721 Gulf Blvd. (727-596-7222). You'll find well-prepared Continental cuisine, fine French and American wines and attentive service in this charming seaside cottage. Classic cream and wine sauces bathe fresh seafoods, veal and beef. Try the crab and shrimp in a creamy Pernod sauce, finish with profiteroles for dessert. $$

P.J.'s Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant, 500 First St., Indian Rocks Beach (727-596-5898). Neighborhood seafood joint serves up simple but wonderfully fresh seafood in a relaxed, casual setting. Order oysters on the half shell as an appetizer and stone crab claws when they're in season or a simple broiled grouper. $$

Salt Rock Grill, 19325 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores (727-593-7625). Usually beautiful waterfront setting and polished, classy interior distinguishes this restaurant. The food is fresh and hearty but not ravishingly creative. Enjoy the crusty handmade bread, and order the tuna sashimi as an appetizer, and for the main course, flame-grilled lobster or steak. $$$

Gulf Beaches/South

Alfredino's on the Beach, 7141 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-9999). This is the place to discover what real Italian cuisine is all about. Heavenly pastas bathed in sauces prepared fresh when you order, beef dishes, such as filet in red wine demiglace, and perhaps the best-prepared fish on the beach, like grouper topped with crab in a Dijon wine sauce. For dessert, try caramel-glazed bananas Foster prepared at your table. $$

The Don CeSar Beach Resort & Spa, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-360-1881). Make a date with the gorgeous pink lady on the beach, one of our area's best-known and most historic structures. Take a lovely Sunday brunch in the King Charles Ballroom, a huge buffet with dozens of dishes, every kind of roll and waffle and an amazingly spectacular view of the Gulf of Mexico from the adjacent open balcony that crowns the fifth floor. $$$

Karim's Bistro, 10700 Gulf Blvd., at the Thunderbird Beach Resort, Treasure Island (727-368-9548). Chef Karim pulls out all the stops to show off the treasures, and pleasures, of his native Moroccan cuisine, preparing dishes both sweet and savory, subtle and seductive. Try chicken tagine with preserved lemons, a slow-cooked, deeply delicious combination of chicken, olives and exotic spices. The house couscous is light and fluffy, flavored with oils and herbs. Served with roasted vegetables, it makes a fine vegetarian meal in itself or complements the tagine. Look for fine continental dishes too, from roasted rack of lamb with honey, garlic and mint sauce to beef filet stuffed with Boursin cheese. $$

The Lobster Pot, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores (727-391-8592). Has been serving fresh finfish and shellfish for nearly 20 years now. The focus, of course, is lobster but other treasures of the Gulf are nicely done. Black grouper, snapper and a variety of crustaceans are ever-present on a menu that has some interesting daily attractions. Don't leave without checking out the chowder. $$$

Sea Critters, 2007 Pass-a-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach (727-360-3706). It's AAA approved, but that's not all. There are fresh finfish and shellfish, dockside dining, fresh salads and sandwiches and a chance to feed their catfish, too. A full bar and a kiddie coloring menu add to the playfulness of this peachy beachy eatery. $$

Snapper's, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-3550). This beautiful little bistro is more than just another pretty face. There's serious chefing going on in the kitchen, where a variety of fresh Atlantic fish are being turned into mouthwatering dishes like cashew-and-coconut-crusted mahi-mahi, or pepper-crusted crusted tuna, seared and served on a bed of bright spring greens with an imaginative and exciting blueberry teriyaki glaze. Carnivores will love veal and pork meatloaf, and steaks are cooked on an oak-fired grill. $$

GulfportBackfin Blue Cafe, 2913 Beach Blvd. S. (727-343-2583). Closed Tuesdays. Quaint little Cafe with classy food, in the heart of an arty district. Great prime rib and meat loaf, excellent fish. Don't miss the corn pur?e with lump crabmeat or the crab cakes. Great desserts, too. Laid-back, casual and definitely tasty. $$

The Habana, at 5402 Gulfport Blvd. S.(727-321-8855). Authentic Cuban foods, with the menu topping out at $10.95. Owner Jo Hastings was born in Cuba but grew up here. She serves traditional Cuban food with a today-twist, like roast pork with cumin, laurel and grilled onions, as well as mojo. Chicken breast done palomilla style and catfish with a plantain crust. $

La Cote Basque Winehouse, 3104 Beach Blvd. (727-321-6888). Expect affordable French foods au gratin, braise and others, plus continental-style dining with prices that are easy to live with. $$

PierHouse Grill and Pepper Co., 5401 Shore Blvd. S. (727-322-1741). The bright tropical dining room offers a great view of Gulfport's pier, and the menu offers hamburgers, steaks, pasta, sandwiches and homemade soups. Best buys are daily specials that show off fresh seafood, like shrimp and grouper in a spicy broth of tomatoes, garlic, onions, olives and peppers over fettuccine. Want more fire? The house makes its own hot sauce, and will spice up your entree, on request. $$

Largo/SeminoleBoulevard Bistro, 8595 Seminole Blvd (727-399-1800). Some of the classiest dining in Seminole is found at Boulevard Bistro, yet the atmosphere remains friendly and casual and prices are easily affordable. Well-prepared seafood is a special treat, especially the grouper sandwich, and an incredible ahi tuna spring roll, wrapped in a puff pastry and served with a warm, spicy dipping sauce. Carnivores will crave the juicy, fire-charred steaks with deeply flavored garlic potatoes. Good selections of wines by the glass are well chosen to complement the food. $$

Cafe Largo, 12551 Indian Rocks Road (727-596-6282). A continental style eatery popular with locals as well as tourists for many years. There's great attention to detail paid to the menu as well as the service. Check for monthly specialty dinners that feature a fine taste of French cooking. $$$

The French Hen, 596 N. Indian Rocks Road (727-586-6316). Homey country-style restaurant and antique shop favored by well-heeled locals for brunch and lunch. Take a little time to browse the antiques and relax in the cozy dining room. Order a glass of wine while you wait for a slice of homemade quiche of the day, which is served with fresh fruit or country potatoes and fancy dessert bread. Or, try the pineapple chicken croissant with chicken and flavored with curry. Don't skip dessert: Chocolate Corruption is the best. $$

Sushi Fune, 10801 Starkey Road, in the Bardmoor Village (727-319-6627). Fune means boat, and here you'll sit at the bar as a small fleet of sushi-bearing boats sail past you. Prices are signified by the colors of the plate. The menu also offers dinner entrees like tempura, teriyaki and sukiyaki. Look for green mussels baked in a special wasabi sauce and cooked baby octopus marinated in special seasonings. $$

Pastino's, 11750 Clearwater-Largo Road (727-559-0506). Pastino's calls itself a neighborhood pizzeria, but when was the last time you saw gnocchi with wild caribou at your corner joint? Pastino's menu runs from mild to wild. Pizzas include Wild Bill's Western steak special, the taco pizza, and even a lobster supreme pizza with lobster, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, basil and olive oil, topped with white cheddar and mozzarella. Pasta dishes range from linguine with clam sauce to ravioli with exotic wild game stuffing. $$

Palm HarborBlue Heron, in the Shoppes at Cloverplace, 3285 Tampa (727-789-5176). Some of the freshest seafood and fowl you'll ever taste. The cuisine at this upscale favorite is a blend of the best techniques and ingredients that encompass Mediterranean, Caribbean, Pacific Rim and New American cuisines. $$$

Consciousness Blossoms, 3390 Tampa Road (727-789-1931). Serving breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday. This tiny little caf? is a true shining star. Not only is it the only entirely vegetarian caf? in Tampa Bay, it's also one of very few restaurants to receive a 100 percent rating from the health inspector. You'll find light, healthy, delicious food served in a calm, relaxing atmosphere, all inspired by the philosophy of meditation teacher Sri Chinmoy. $

A Taste Of Tokyo Sushi and Yakitori Bar, 3428 Tampa Road (State Road 584) in The Village at Lake St. George (727-787-6235). Closed Monday. Like a visit to Japan. If you've never tried sushi before, this is the place to start. Superior sushi bar, yakitori bar, old faves like tempura, new faves like gyoza, pan-fried Japanese dumplings. $

Pinellas Park

Cajun Cafe, 8101 Park Blvd. (727-546-6732). Cajun Cafe sits on a backwater bayou, the perfect spot for zydeco tunes on the jukebox and fiery gumbo or jambalaya. Don't miss the searing barbecue shrimp or the crawfish cornbread, full of fire and mudbugs. Good po-boy sandwiches, gator bites and boudin sausage served with beans and rice. $$

Regina's Philippine Cuisine, 9727 66th St. N. (727-544-6182). Ever tried this flavorful cuisine? If not, you're in for a culinary awakening. There are plenty of daily specials made with fresh, crunchy veggies and perfectly cooked noodles. A range of sweet, sour, salty, etc. Cash only. $$

Safety HarborGreen Springs Caf? and Gathering Place, 122 Third Ave. N. (727-669-6762). This quaint neighborhood caf?, housed in a cozy, old wooden house hides a secret — there's a CIA-trained chef in the kitchen, turning out deeply delicious dishes like mahi stuffed with blue crab, or stuffed pork loin with bourbon demiglace. For a meal in a bowl, order the spicy gumbo made with dark, delicious roux loaded with chicken and chunky vegetables. $$

Safety Harbor Resort Cafe, 105 N. Bayshore Drive (727-726-1161). If you think eating healthy means giving up delicious flavor, then you need to try the spa meals at this renowned resort. The casual cafe offers imaginative appetizers, like grilled portobello mushroom with candied figs and Maytag bleu cheese drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar or try pan-fried lump crab cakes with mango and scotch bonnet aioli garnished with carrot hair and frizzled leeks. Dinners range from guava-glazed and grilled duck breast served with sweet potato pancakes and saut?ed greens with chili-vinegar drizzle to a rich seafood bouillabaisse seasoned with allspice and sherry. $$

St. Petersburg

Central St. Pete/TyroneAjanta Indian Cuisine, 5005 34th St. N., inside the Ramada Inn (727-525-1181). Once upon a time, you had to drive to the far side of Tampa to taste the savory, seductive flavors of Indian cuisine, but no more. Ajanta serves up a fine feast of dishes that celebrate the Indian tradition of using a large variety of very fresh spices to turn foods as simple as lentils or potatoes into surprisingly sophisticated dishes. Be sure and try tandoori chicken, or jinga masala, shrimps bathed in a subtly spicy sauce. Check out daily lunch specials and the Sunday buffet. $$

Athenian Gardens, 6940 22nd Ave. N. (727-345-7040). You probably can't get more delicious family-style Greek food at affordable prices without driving to Tarpon Springs. This is the exception. Swift, efficient service and tasty food. The hefty gyros sandwich is a feast. Full dinner menu. $

El Maguey Taqueria, 4327 66th St. N. (727-547-9366). If you're tired of the talking Chihuahua, check out this true Mexican taqueria, where good food will fill you up and low dough prices will leave you with plenty of change in your pocket. This Spartan, but spotlessly clean little eatery serves meal-size burritos grandes, bursting with meat, beans and rice, along with three fresh, homemade and hot-as-hell salsas, tasty tamales filled with pork in green sauce, good chilies rellenos, all available al la carte or on dinner plates with rice and beans. Cash only. $

O Bistro, 6661 Central Ave. (727-381-1212). O Bistro offers a surprisingly upscale menu from Chef Tyson Grant with eclectic dishes that range from blue corn tortilla crusted grouper with cilantro-lime-chile oil, to guava-Hoisin barbecue duck with ginger-five spice aioli. There's special attention to freshness and healthy ingredients. O uses free-range chickens and grass-fed, hormone-free, antibiotic-free Montana beef. For comfort food, try the grilled applewood smoked pork chop served with maple roasted apple chutney and sharp white cheddar grits. Seafood lovers will drool over saut?ed jumbo shrimp served with a champagne butter sauce and saffron lobster ravioli. $$

Saffron's Caribbean, 1700 Park St. N. (727-345-6400). Saffron's sister team offers authentic jerk chicken and more, with spices that will take you to Jamaica. Appleton steak and curry dishes to satisfy the fussiest island connoisseurs. $$

The Steak Joint, 4871 Park St. (727-545-9481). This joint has some of the best black angus treats around. Aged beef makes the difference, but so do the fresh salads, veggies and superb appetizers. No a la carte here; salad, bread and additional veggies are included with meals. Hickory smoked barbecue baby back ribs are the best in town. Fully stocked bar. $$$

Downtown St. PeteAlfresco at The Vinoy, 501 Fifth Ave. N.E. (727-894-1000). This Floribbean-style restaurant is one of the best-kept secrets in town with its authentic conch fritters and curried remoulade, grilled grouper and good pasta dishes including a superb seafood linguine. Spicy cold peel-and-eat shrimp along with one (or two) of their imported beers makes for a nice poolside lunch. $$$

Bertoni Italian Restaurant, 16 Second St. N., Jannus Landing (727-822-5503). Chef Bertoni transformed this old nightclub into a casual, tony bistro serving fine Italian cuisine. Servings are large. Split them if you like a meal with more than one course. The portobello mushroom in puff pastry is a delightful starter; the ginger cream a perfect ending. Fill in the middle with fine pastas and filets. $$

Grand Finale, 1101 First Ave. N. (727-823-9921). This creative bar and bistro is mere blocks from the Tropicana Field of dreams, but light years away from hot dogs and Cracker Jacks. Instead, you'll find one of St. Petersburg's premier destinations for fine dining. The style flirts with Asian ingredients fused with French accents. Try sophisticated starters like seared foie gras drizzled with black pepper caramel, and entrees like seared red snapper served with black truffle risotto or grilled pork tenderloin served with curry-scented and caramelized root vegetables. $$-$$$

Midtown Sundries, 200 First Ave. S. (727-502-0222) This eatery offers an inviting, club-like atmosphere with plenty of entertainment, including billiards, video games, TV and live music. Affordable food, like hamburgers, chicken fingers, fish and steak, made fresh in-house make this a good choice for casual dining. $/$$

Northeast St. Pete/Gateway

Ambrosia, 201 Seventh Ave. N. (727-898-5194). This lively corner cafe offers light, Mediterranean-style fare. Lunch menu includes wraps, hummus, salads or fresh seafood. At dinner, try oven-roasted chicken Patricia or lamb chops with mint chermoula and garlic mashed potatoes. $$

Babalu, 9246 Fourth St. N. (727-576-7414). It's not swank, just swell. Yes, The Babalu is the veritable definition of a joint. No-account decor, low-class atmosphere, cold beer and gut-busting quantities of low-dough food, with almost everything from salad dressings to side dishes homemade from scratch, have made this place a neighborhood favorite for years. Our favorites are the all-you-care-to-eat nightly specials, like crispy battered grouper or barbecued ribs. $

Fred's Famous Bar-B-Que, 4351 Fourth St. N. (727-822-3733). Fred really does have a whole slew of national and international awards, but the best testimony to his barbecue is the crowd of neighbors who pack this place nightly, chowing down on meaty, fall-off-the-bone pork ribs, grilled or smoked chicken, smoked brisket, sausage and corned beef. Sauces are sweet, but overall, flavors are spicy. Be sure and try extra-thick milkshakes. $$

The Crab Shack, 11400 Gandy Blvd. (727-576-7813). On the St. Pete side of the Gandy Bridge sits a rundown shack filled with crabs so fresh they'll bite your toes. Blue crab, gold crab, stone crab, soft-shell crab; if it's got claws, they'll cook it! Don't miss the skewers of honey-barbecue shrimp, or the mouthwatering house specialty, Snapper Corvina, a 2-and1/2-pound whole snapper deep-fried. Any fresher, and this fish would still be swimming. $$

Papaya's Cafe, 229 62nd Ave. N. (727-528-6165). Terrific, little cafe, owned and operated by Greg and Vince Hilbert, specializes in dishes featuring fresh fruit and seafood. Start with Vinces' delicious mullet spread, go for the smoked pork main dish topped with papaya chutney fruit salsa, and finish with an artful Key lime pie. $$

Red Mesa, 4912 Fourth St. N. (727-527-8728) This casually ambient eatery features regional Mexican and Southwestern cuisine. Black bean soup is nicely seasoned with fresh cilantro and epizote topped with chopped onion. There's tortilla crusted grouper with pineapple ancho cream, shrimp with garlic and chilies, fresh ceviche and Oaxaqueno-style fondue with chorizo. An adventure in cuisine by Chef Chris Fernandez. $$

Ringside Cafe, 2742 Fourth St. N. (727-894-8465). Local and national rhythm and blues acts every night in a funky old wooden house with better-than-average bar food. Best menu bets are Black Angus hamburgers, fresh grouper sandwiches and chili cheese fries. Ringside also has $1 drafts, $1.50 bottles. $

Sushi Zen, 11024 Fourth St. N., in the Bayview Shopping Plaza (727-577-3811). This little Japanese/Korean restaurant is short on decor, but delightfully long on expertly prepared and delicious food. The Japanese side of the menu offers scrumptious tempura, as well as teriyaki and rice dishes. Try the special eel roll, filled with shrimp tempura and topped with sweet eel. The Korean side of the menu is a chili-head's delight. Dishes like sliced pork loin or bulgogi, marinated, grilled beef, are spiced to the max and served with a half-dozen little side dishes that let you heat it up or cool it down. $$

South St. Pete

Basta's Ristorante, 1625 Fourth St. S. (727-894-7880). An outstanding Italian restaurant. Chef Frank Basta orchestrates the kitchen while Mario concentrates on the fine details. Superb scampi, seafood dishes and excellent service. $$$

Big Tim's BBQ, 530 34th St. S., St. Petersburg (727-327-7388). Tiny, Creamsicle-colored restaurant with just a few modest tables, but Big Tim can sure grill barbecue. Order the half-slab of pork ribs, drizzle it with Tim's Secret Sauce, and prepare to overeat. It's hard to stop once you start, especially if you're also noshing on the fried corn and baked beans. $

The Chattaway, 358 22nd Ave. S. (727-823-1594). This little wooden building at different times served as a grocery store, a gas station and a trolley stop. It's since become a local historical landmark and a great place to stop for a good Chattaburger (burger with all the fixings) and some of the coldest draft beer in town. The ambiance of the eatery perfectly fits the image of early St. Pete. $

Tierra Verde

Tokyo Bay Restaurant, 1501 Sun Blvd., Bayway, in Isla Del Sol's Shopper's Village (727-867-0770). Chef Eiji Jose Sonogi slices up a sushi jamboree at this casual sushi haunt a stone's throw from Pinellas' south beaches. Try the Yumbo Combo II with California rolls, tuna and salmon, or really live it up with his Japanese Fishing Boat. You'll catch an eyeful (and a mouthful) of exotic cargo, including nigiri tuna, uni sushi and three superb rolls. $$

Tarpon Springs

Costa Restaurant, 521 Athens St. (727-938-6890). This intimate 120-seat inexpensive gem serves broiled snapper or octopus with garlic and oregano and traditional Greek entrees like dolmades, and lamb baked with orzo pasta and you-peel-'em shrimp. $

Hellas, 785 Dodecanese Blvd. (727-943-2400). Talk to the locals; they'll tell you this is the best food in town. Sample the Saganaki (flaming cheese) and pickled octopus, but don't stop there. Have a Greek salad with fresh feta, a bowl of avgolemono (lemon and egg soup), one of the fresh fish dishes, then finish with a plate of just-baked Greek pastries (baklava, bougatsa and chocolate flogeres) from their bakery next door. $$

Mr. Souvlaki, 802 N. Pinellas Ave. (727-937-2795). Take a weekend, or just a lazy Sunday afternoon to browse through the Tarpon boutiques, then stop for lunch or dinner; but definitely souvlaki, a delectable shish kabob marinated in Mr. Souvlaki's secret herb-spice blend in a blanket of warm pita bread, topped with ripe tomatoes, onion and a remarkable tzatziki sauce. $$