London Heights British Pub
3 out of 5 stars
7701 N. Nebraska Ave., Tampa. Appetizers: $4-$15; entrees: $7-$19; desserts: $7; beer: $3-$10. 813-231-7200; facebook.com/londonheightsbritishpub.
As I pull into the parking lot of Tampa’s London Heights British Pub (briefly known as London Calling), there’s a feeling of déjà vu — all over again. In February 2015, I reviewed a former occupant of this Seminole Heights space, Bourgeois Pig, which gave way to Ox & Fields in June 2016. The rebrand as The Ox this past June didn’t take, so the space has morphed once more.
Owners Paul Medrano, Melissa Clemeth, and David Hall have done a splendid job of adapting this Florida bungalow with a bright exterior of “redcoat” paint and a sextet of Union Jacks unfurled and flapping above the fascia boards. A young tiara-wearing Queen Elizabeth II reigns under the gable facing Nebraska Avenue. However, her eyes are hidden beneath a blindfold that resembles a ransom note with words in different fonts snipped from a magazine to avoid leaving clues. “God Save the Queen,” indeed.
Inside, there are comfy tartan-clad booths, tray ceilings emblazoned with Union Jack paint, and “water closets” behind red London phone-booth doors. And just for fun, when nature calls, a cardboard cutout beefeater stands guard to make sure you wash your hands. The dining room itself is monitored by huge iconic portraits with the watchful eyes of Winston and Will and Elizabeth R. Plenty of flat screens allow patrons to knock back a pint or two while watching the game of their choice.
We decide to explore the pub’s most traditional dishes, beginning with Guinness — although, in this case, it’s in a yummy cheese dip that’s American in origin. When the menu says it’s served with pub chips, I’m thinking British “chips,” aka fries. Instead, it’s served with American potato chips, what the Brits call “crisps.” The good news is that they’re homemade, kettle-style and delicious. Plus, there’s enough for a crowd.
The Scotch egg — which, for the uninitiated, is a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat, breaded and deep fried — is terrific. It’s one of my favorite English classics. London Heights’s version features spicy sausage and some extra kick, if desired, from an English mustard sauce.
The soup of the moment isn’t particularly British, but it is tasty. It’s a creamy tomato-ginger that I thought was nicely balanced, but my other tasters felt the ginger was too strong. So in case it shows up on your visit, be aware that the ginger is assertive.
We also stick to time-honored English entrees, beginning with fish and chips. Beer-battered Atlantic cod is quite authentic, with moist fish in a crisp golden coating. The chips (fries) are thinner than what’s served in the U.K., but fine. A spoon of bright-green English peas finishes the plate with a burst of color.
Chicken curry arrives with lots of flavor, an unusual abundance of carrots, and not much sauce. Most English curries have plenty of creamy sauce, and “chip shops” most often offer curry sauce for dipping. That said, the chicken is moist and the balance of spices is pleasant. If your main desire is for curry spice, you’ll be happy.
Shepherd’s pie has come to be a universal name for seasoned ground beef with onions, peas and carrots covered with mashed potatoes. Technically, beef equals cottage pie and shepherd’s pie means lamb; the distinction now no longer seems relevant. This take is an ample portion in a large ceramic ramekin. The sauce is tangy with a distinct edge of Worcestershire sauce, rather than, say, a lush brown gravy. For me, London Heights’s version is less appealing, as the vinegary edge makes me long for more salt. With this flavor profile, it’s also less of a comfort food than most shepherd’s pies.
The desserts aren’t all that British, either, but they will suffice. I had so hoped for some sticky toffee pudding, which must be ordered if you ever encounter it. I’m in England for the holidays as I write, and downed the delicious confection again in a Warwickshire pub the other night. We need to convince British establishments in the states to champion this wonder so that it will become as ubiquitous as key lime pie or crème brûlée.
There is a free-form apple tart that’s a rustic affair, and while the pastry isn’t of the flaky French variety, it’s nicely golden as it folds around not-too-sweet apple slices with a satisfying caramel sauce. We enjoy freshly sliced strawberries layered in a glass of very, very, sweet crème anglaise topped with whipped cream, too. It occurs to me, however, how easily the dessert could be transformed into a quintessentially English trifle with two small rounds of cake and a drizzle of sherry. If your goal is to be like an English pub, why not go for authenticity?
London Heights features a range of 40-plus brews on draft and in bottles from both sides of the pond, including a refreshing, dry Mangers Irish Cider, which is a nice alternative to ale. What I really miss, though, is the welcoming sense of community. Perhaps it’s there for regulars, or if you sit at the bar, but after being overcome with kindness here in Shakespeare country, I’m reminded of our London Heights server’s indifference. A true pub atmosphere welcomes you like Cheers, where everybody knows your name.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at [email protected].
