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Thursday, February 25, 2010
The Chef's Repertoire -- by local chef Gui Alinat -- may be the only cookbook you'll ever need
Posted by Brian Ries on Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 2:52 PM
I have to admit, when I receive a book from a small publisher by a local writer my expectations start low. Even when it's from someone I know. When CL contributor and local chef Gui Alinat sent me a copy of his new The Chef's Repertoire, I was prepared to be underwhelmed. Not so fast.
Although at first glance it seems like another culinary dictionary, this book may be the only cookbook you'll ever need.
Alinat based Repertoire on the 1914 Le Répertoire de La Cuisine, which was a guide to classic French dishes that he used during cooking school in Provence. He expanded the concept to include 1,100 iconic dishes from around the world, organized by style or course, with an incredibly brief and concise explanation of how to cook each one. There are no oven temperatures or precise ingredient amounts, just a simple list of what to use and how to prepare it.
Here's an example from the fish and seafood section:
Orly [OR lee]: French origin. Dredge filet in flour, beaten eggs, and bread crumbs. Deep-fry. Serve tomato sauce on the side.
Considering recent seasons of Top Chef, where professional restaurant cooks were routinely befuddled when asked to make classic dishes, Repertoire could be a vital resource in a professional kitchen. "It's great to read like 3 sentences and know what a caesar salad really is," says Alinat. "Even those who know may need a refresher."
But that's only a part of its appeal.
"I actually use my own book every day," says Alinat. "But for people who are non-professional chefs, they are very interested in it because it gives them ideas and for general knowledge." For a home cook with a modicum of skill who's willing to take some responsibility for their cooking, Repertoire is an invaluable and compact list of recipes that can fill out weekly meal planning.
For even inexperienced cooks, the lack of detailed instructions and giant ingredient lists may be less imposing, even freeing, when it's time to experiment. "Read a recipe and it says 'in an 8-inch pan over medium heat take 1/2 cup...'" says Alinat. "I go straight to the point, which is to just saute the onions. Who cares how much of everything is in there, or if you use thyme instead of basil. As long as the basic ingredients are there, ratatouille is still ratatouille. You can use this and make the dish your own."
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