Monday, December 21, 2009

Sparkling wines for every pocketbook.

Posted by Colleen Sachs on Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 10:08 AM

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The wine of choice for special celebrations, including New Year’s Eve, is anything that sparkles. There's just something about seeing those little bubbles moving from the bottom to the top of a flute that puts people in a festive mood. Even better, sparkling wines are delicious and pair beautifully with a variety of popular holiday foods.

With crab, lobster, shrimp and scallops try a brut or demi-sec, the dryer of the sparkling wine styles. Turkey, chicken, rabbit and duck are delicious with a rose. Truffles work well with brut or rose. For cheese plates go with a blanc de blanc or rose, but avoid pairing most sparklers with strong blue cheeses. And for me there is nothing like a blanc de blanc with homey fried fish or chicken.

If money is no object, go directly to the Dom Perignon Vintage 2000 ($150). It is the quintessential Champagne. Tight, tiny bubbles give the wine a mousse-like mouthfeel. With white pepper on the nose, and crisp complexity on the palate, Dom Perignon is a joy to drink. A close second is Veuve Cliquot Vintage 2002 ($99). This elegant wine has bubbles that seem to last forever. Hints of anise and other spices are balanced by fruit.

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When what you spend matters, but isn’t the only factor, there are many options. One of my favorite mid-priced sparklers is California's Schramsberg Brut Rose ($40). I recently tasted the 2006 and found its pale pink color and abundance of small bubbles simply beautiful. Aromas and flavors of yeast and red berries make this the wine equivalent of having lightly toasted brioche with strawberry preserves.

Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs ($33) is also lovely, with good citrus and apple acidity, and the same yeastiness as the rose. This pinot noir-based wine is wonderful with food. Schramsberg's Blanc de Blanc is also good value at ($30). The 2005 is pleasingly tart and has a nice long finish.

Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial ($50) tastes like a holiday in a glass. It is a rich and creamy Champagne with loads of tropical fruit, honey and ginger.

Other mid-priced choices are the excellent Roederer Brut Premier ($40), Tattinger La Francaise Brut ($35), delicious Piper Heidsieck Brut ($29), and Argyle blanc de blanc ($36).

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Good bottles of bubbles for less than $20 are possible. One of the best values I have seen recently is Chandon blanc de noirs ($15), fragrant with black currant, strawberry and cherry. Crisp Chandon brut ($15), highlighted by fall fruits and bread, is also a great value. Roederer Anderson Valley brut ($20) has an appealing nuttiness to complement ripe pear.

While New Mexico is not the first place I think of when I think of sparkling wine, Gruet is producing good sparklers at reasonable prices. Gruet blanc de blanc 2004 ($20) is crisp with a nice finish. Gruet brut is a good value at $16. Gruet blanc de noirs (also $16) is a possibility if you are looking for toasty character.

Really inexpensive bubbly can be found in the form of prosecco, moscato di Asti and Brachetto d’Acqui. Stellina di Notte prosecco was a wonderful surprise. At $13 this sparkler is not as sweet as many proseccos. It is a good option for before dinner. So is the Tosti prosecco, the least

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expensive wine on the recommended list at $9.

For dessert, Batasiolo moscato di Asti ($16) is a good option. It has a lovely golden color. Rich ripe pear is evident in this unctuous wine with a bit of acidity for balance. Another dessert option is Banfi Rosa Regale ($19). The 2008 boasts a deep red color, bright fruit (dark cherry, strawberry, raspberry) and floral aroma. Just sip, or try it with dark chocolate.

On New Year’s Eve drive carefully and drink responsibly. Happy New Year.

To read what and where Colleen is eating and drinking, follow her on Twitter @colleensachs.

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