Spirits Review: Jim Beam Red Stag is a sign of the flavored times

[image-1]Red Stag is Jim Beam's first entry into the flavored spirits market, infused with natural black cherry flavors invoking the classic bourbon Manhattan. But unlike the blank canvas of vodka, this fruit has to interact with bourbon's sweet, vanilla oak and clean caramel foundation. Oddly enough, it does.


Oh, sure, I'd rather drink my bourbon straight, or with the honest addition of vermouth, bitters and a speared maraschino cherry, but Jim Beam has managed to weave an injection of very subtle fruit into the complete package that this classic American spirit provides. The hints of acidity and sugar accentuate the oaky vanilla while tempering the heat of the 80 proof bourbon. Pour it straight into a highball glass loaded with ice and you have a lazy-man's Manhattan.


But be warned, bourbon industry: Although I can appreciate Red Stag -- even though I'd never spend money on it -- this is where I draw the line. Start cramming acai berry, coffee, bacon or anything else into that delicious brown liquid and I'll have to switch back to Scotch.

I wasn't surprised when the flavored vodka market exploded in the 1990s. It seemed appropriate that a spirit desired primarily for its "clean" — or nonexistent — flavor would try to reposition itself as something a little more useful. Over a decade later vodka producers and neighborhood mixologists are still having a ball devising ways to use a line-up of infused spirits that seems more like a list of jelly bean flavors.

The problem is, manufacturers of other spirits are looking on with envy at the balance sheet of the vodka industry. That's why we've been forced to confront atrocities like the defunct Dirty Olive Gin or Captain Morgan Parrot Bay Mango. Perhaps it's inevitable that the most elegant and refined of America's spirits would eventually get in the act.

That's right, flavored bourbon.

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