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Monday, January 26, 2009
The future of foie gras: Dan Barber talks about Eduardo Sousa
Posted by Brian Ries on Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 1:28 PM
Do you refrain from eating foie gras due to ethical concerns? Understandable, even if I personally overcome that ethical dilemma thanks to the fuindamental deliciousness of those fatted duck and goose livers. One of the biggest problems most folk have with the production of foie gras -- besides the industrialized nature of almost every livestock operation -- is gavage, or force-feeding.
Well, you might not have to forego this tasty delicacy any longer.
Ducks and geese have livers that naturally create vast stores of fat to carry the bird through the lean winter months and hardhsips of migratory travel. Foie gras producers take advantage of that by sticking a tube down the bird's throat and pumping in a calorie-rich slurry. By the time the bird is slaughtered, its liver can be six to ten times normal size.
Over the past few years, some regions have begun banning foie gras production, or even the sale of the liver, with chefs usually falling vehemently on one side or the other. But a small operation in Spain is trying to buck that trend by showing that excellent foie can be produced with a farming operation that is intensely humane. No gavage there. Hell, they don't even live in pens.
Watch Dan Barber -- of Stone Barns Center and fresh from a guest judge spot on Top Chef -- wax rhapsodic about his visit to Pateria De Sousa at the TED food conference:
Related stories:
Letters in response to that story: Part 1, Part 2
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